Ermenegildo Zegna Captivates -By Priyanka Sippy
Master Couturiers Ermenegildo Zegna stunned all with their Winter 2020 collection by Alessandro Sartori this January. Designed with its #UseTheExisting philosophy, which is a commitment to creating new fabrics from existing ones, Zegna sets an exemplary example for others.
#UseTheExisting, is a philosophy that starts from fabric and extends to clothing and beyond. The set design, devised in collaboration with multi-media American artist Anne Patterson, has been made of thousands of ribbons created from leftover Zegna fabrics. The show, which took place at a former Milanese foundry, showed off the installation, which formed a magnificent backdrop – a massive suspended cube – an interplay of color, matter and light –solid in appearance, but in reality, transparent.
In this geometric forest of ribbons, the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Winter 2020 collection revealed itself. The silhouette is neat and layered; the sum of the parts and garments is accentuated; ergonomic details such as flaps and patch pockets add a utilitarian look. Three-button suits with slightly boxy, one-breast-and-a-half jackets and tapered trousers are worn under puffy blousons; zip-up over shirts with low collar lines replace traditional shirts.
The tailored waistcoat makes a comeback, which can be worn with or without the suit. A process of constant morphing defines evolved shapes: wraparound, belted blazers; voluminous coats with deep back pleats; coat/parka fusions; shirts that double as short-sleeved blousons. Fabrics get more and more experimental, further expanding the #UseTheExisting approach in weaves and mixes of natural with synthetic fibers. Patterns such as moirè, macro check and digitized landscapes are rendered in print, jacquard and devorè techniques – alone, or mixed – playing with layers and scales. Even plain fabrics like recycled cashmere flannel or Achillfarm, the suiting wool made entirely from the remnants of suit-making, are highly innovative. Calf leather is laser-patterned, hand-cut and printed, or distressed and tumbled.
Accessories include bold-soled, polished boots and derbies, oversized bum-bags, soft bags. The newest brand icon INSTA-PACK, a functional crossbody bag inspired by photographers’ attitude, features sartorial details and a Zegna vintage logo from 1980 created by the graphic designer Bob Noorda. The collaboration with Leica, the legendary German high-end manufacturer of cameras and sport optics products, translates into a desirable array of camera bags, holders and straps. The metamorphic play of textures and shapes is captured by the muted palette of neutral tones of plaster, sand stone, cloudy sky and brown quartz highlighted by touches of rose gold, copper, ember red and peacock blue and finished by matte black.
“At Zegna I have the privilege to experiment at every level, from the mix of fibers to the evolved tailoring shapes – says Alessandro Sartori – “It is all about reshuffling or hybridizing categories, breaking boundaries in order to explore new territories: this is our new tailoring lexicon. One experimentation leads to the next, in one seamless dialogue, always keeping in mind that our art should always respect the earth. That’s our mission, as both humans and fashion-makers”.
The installation Art for Earth by Anne Patterson will be open to the public until January 31st 2020.